Giles Coren reviews Shikumen, London NW3

You know how it is when you’re just back from summer holidays and everything at home looks a bit weird and small and kind of familiar/unfamiliar like in a dream? And you go to where the fridge was in your holiday rental but in your own kitchen that’s the pots and pans cupboard and you reach in for a beer and out comes your hand holding a cheese grater?